Roughly 300 million pallets move through the US supply chain each year, and a huge share end up discarded or reclaimed. That's a lot of free lumber, but also a lot of hidden nails waiting to wreck a planer blade or an eye.
This guide walks through safety checks, tool choices, the actual planing process, and what you can build once your boards are smooth.
Key Takeaways
- Check for an HT stamp before reclaiming any pallet — skip anything marked MB
- Match tools to stock: benchtop planer for thick stringers, drum sander for thin, nail-prone deck boards
- Keep passes shallow (1/32 inch or less) to avoid tearing thin or warped pallet stock
- Use planed, sanded pallet wood for signs, shelves, and small furniture
- Businesses needing consistent, food-grade, or export-ready wood should skip DIY reclaiming entirely
What Is a Pallet of Wood Called, and Why Planing Matters
A pallet is built from specific parts, and knowing them helps you plan your teardown.
- Stringer: the long support beam running underneath the deck
- Deck board: the boards nailed across the top (or bottom) of the stringers
- Skid: a pallet with no bottom deck at all
Pallet stock is typically rough-sawn softwood or hardwood, often warped, dirty, and fastened with dozens of nails. That's why planing matters: it's the step that turns a splintery, uneven board into something you'd actually want in a piece of furniture.
HT vs. MB: Check the Stamp First
Before you touch a saw, look for the stamp burned into the stringer. HT means the wood was heat-treated instead of chemically fumigated. MB means methyl bromide fumigation, a chemical treatment you don't want anywhere near an indoor project.
Palleton's own heat-treated pallets, for example, are processed so the wood core reaches a minimum of 140°F for at least 30 minutes, then stamped to ISPM-15 standards. That stamp confirms pest-treatment compliance. It is not a blanket guarantee the wood is clean or safe for every use, but it is a solid first filter. If you see MB, walk away.
Preparing Pallet Wood Before Planing
This is the step most DIYers rush. It's also the one that protects both your tools and your fingers.
Disassembly Without Splitting Boards
You've got two realistic options:
- Reciprocating saw: fast. Cut through the nails holding deck boards to stringers using a demolition or bi-metal blade.
- Pry bar and hammer: slower, but gentler on the wood. Better if you're trying to salvage every board intact.
Remove Every Fastener
Nails and staples are the number one cause of ruined planer blades. Use:
- A pry bar for protruding nail heads
- A cat's paw to lift flush or sunk nails before prying
- A magnet sweep across the finished pile to catch anything you missed
Never assume a board is clear. One missed staple can chip a blade or send debris flying.
Inspect, Clean, and Gear Up
Before anything goes near a machine:
- Check every board for cracks, rot, or insect damage. Reject anything questionable
- Wire-brush or scrape off dirt and grit. Embedded grime dulls planer blades fast, and replacement knives aren't cheap
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and a dust mask. Pallet wood can carry mold and years of accumulated grime
Choosing the Right Tool: Planer vs. Drum Sander
Both tools flatten wood, but they behave very differently with pallet stock.
| Feature | Benchtop Planer | Drum Sander |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Thick stringers/skids | Thin, nail-prone deck boards |
| Typical width capacity | ~12.5–13 inches | Up to 20 inches (open-ended, two passes) |
| Material removal | Fast, aggressive | Slow, gentle |
| Metal tolerance | None — nails can eject debris | Also none, despite the open design |
| Entry price | Around $500 | $1,300+ |
A benchtop planer removes material quickly, which is great for thick stringers but risky if you missed a nail. A drum sander takes off far less per pass, so it's more forgiving on thin, warped deck boards — but it's not a fix for embedded metal. Both machines expect wood only.
Many woodworkers who work with reclaimed lumber regularly end up owning both: a planer for the thick stuff, a drum sander for anything thin or suspect.
Step-by-Step: How to Plane Pallet Wood
Once your boards are clean, fastener-free, and inspected, here's the process:
- Flatten twisted boards first: Run a jointer pass or set the board on a simple plywood sled so you establish a flat reference face before thicknessing. Skip this and you risk jamming the machine.
- Set a shallow first pass: Take 1/32 inch or less. Pallet boards are often already thin, so aggressive cuts can tear right through them.
- Feed consistently: Support the far end as it exits to prevent snipe (the dip that forms when board weight tips into the cutter).
- Flip and repeat on the opposite face. Check thickness after every pass; you'll run out of margin faster than with fresh lumber.
- Sand after planing: Machine marks that look fine on bare wood often show under stain or finish. Start around 120-grit and work up as needed.
Leave an inch or two of extra length on each board when possible. You can trim off snipe-damaged ends after your final pass instead of trying to plane it away.
What You Can Build With Planed Pallet Wood
Planed pallet wood works for real projects once it's clean, fastener-free, planed, and sanded smooth.
Popular builds that sell well at markets:
- Rustic signs
- Floating shelves
- Small planters
- Patio furniture
- Adirondack chairs
One real example: Pretty Pallets built a business around sanded pallet-wood signs, running painting parties and selling over 600 pieces through Etsy. That demand shows the reclaimed-wood market is real. Planing takes the same stock further for furniture-grade work.
Uniform, planed boards open doors rough pallet wood can't:
- Picture frames (need flat, consistent stock)
- Coffee tables
- Headboards and small cabinetry
Rough pallet stock suits rustic builds. Planed stock is flat and consistent enough for pieces you'd put in a living room.
When Buying New or Custom Pallets Makes More Sense
DIY reclaiming works great for hobby projects. It stops working the moment a business needs consistent, food-grade, or export-compliant wood packaging.
Reclaimed pallets vary board to board — different species, different moisture content, unpredictable structural integrity. That's fine for a shelf. It's not fine for shipping pharmaceuticals or exporting machinery.
Palleton covers that business need. With more than 45 years in the pallet and lumber industry and seven facilities including its own lumber mill, it offers:
- Custom hardwood and softwood pallets and crates built to exact load, weight, and handling specs
- ISPM-15 heat-treated export packaging, stamped to current standards (minimum 140°F core for 30 minutes)
- Food-grade washed pallets for businesses that can't risk reclaimed wood in their supply chain
- Graded stock (A, B, #1, #2) in new, combination, or fully recycled lumber
For a weekend project, a pry bar and a planer will get you there. For a business shipping products across state lines or overseas, custom pallets matched to load and compliance specs cut out the variability.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you use planed pallet wood for projects?
Yes, provided the pallet was HT-stamped, every nail was removed, and the wood was planed and sanded smooth before use. Skip anything stamped MB or showing signs of rot.
What can I make out of planed pallet wood to sell?
Rustic signs, floating shelves, and small planters are popular sellers. Smooth, uniform boards also support higher-end pieces like coffee tables once properly finished.
What is a pallet of wood called?
A wooden shipping platform is called a pallet. Its main parts are stringers (the long support beams) and deck boards (the boards nailed across them). A pallet with no bottom deck is called a skid.
Is it safe to plane pallet wood indoors?
It can be, with proper dust collection and thorough nail removal beforehand. Hidden metal and airborne dust are the two biggest risks to manage.
How many passes does it take to plane pallet wood smooth?
It varies with warp and thickness, but expect several shallow passes per side, followed by finish sanding starting around 120-grit.
Do I need both a planer and a drum sander for pallet wood?
Not necessarily. A planer alone handles many projects, but a drum sander adds real value when you're working with thin or nail-prone deck boards.
